How To Clean or Replace a MAF Sensor for VW or Audi DIY
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The Benefits of Cleaning Your Mass Air Flow Sensor
The more oil and dirt accumulates on your MAF the worse it serves it's purpose. The dirtier it get get the less accurate the reading it gives to your ECU (computer). These readings can cause lower gas milage and a small loss of power.
Cleaning your MAF will not only extend the life of the sensor it will also help keep the power level and gas milage where it should be. So if you feel that lack of power when you hit the gas or have noticed a change in your MPG. The MAF sensor is the best place to start on your car.
Parts and labor cost from the dealership.
A new MAF sensor from the dealership can cost anywhere between 80-150 dollars depending on your cars make and model. The labor cost will add on another $150 as VW/Audi quotes labor time being an hour and a half. Update: for my new GTI I needed a new maf for emissions as the old one was completely dead from the previous owner running the car with no filter. I bought a new one on ebay for $40 that even came with a 90 day warranty, it has been six months and I've yet to have a problem with it. So if you're willing to trust an ebay product that is also an option.
Doing this job as a beginner will take you around 30 minutes if you are replacing the MAF or around two hours (including drying time) if you decide to clean the sensor. There are no special tools needed for the job. The whole operation is very straight forward and easy enough for anyone to accomplish.
So why throw away $300 for thirty minutes of work?
Tools & Parts for the Job
- Philips Head Screwdriver
- Vise Grip or pliers
- 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol) or MAF Cleaner
- 2 Trim Replacement Screws
- Gallon Size Ziplock Bag
The tools needed for this job are very simple. Most of which you should have in your garage or tool drawer. One tool that I have not listed is a specialty tamper proof 5 star torx bit made by and for Vw/Audi. I've not listed it for three reasons. 1) This tool is incredibly hard to find, so it is not worth the price or hassle of ordering it from a VW/Audi dealership. 2) The screws will be replaced with philip head screws for future convenience. 3) These screws can be removed with pliers and once they're out you'll never have to deal with them again!
NOTE: Some MAFS use a 6 point tamperproof screw. If that is the case you can easily find a bit or screwdriver for those screws at any hardware or auto store for cheap.
The chemical that is used to clean the MAF sensor is completely up to you. There is a large variety to choose from at your local auto parts store or you can use rubbing alcohol from the grocery store for about a dollar. I personally have always used rubbing alcohol and have never had a problem. It cleans, dries quick and is cheap. So for the cleaning part of this DIY, I will be using common 91% Isopropyl Alcohol.
The screws used to replace the 5 point audi screws can be bought at any auto shop. I purchased a small pack of #10 trim screws from AutoZone for $2.29, they look just like the stock screws but with a philips head tip. Another option is to just re-use the 5 star screws and put them back in the same way you took them out.
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Testing Your MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor)
If you are already showing a check engine light on your dash or are just feeling the symptoms of a bad MAF. Here is an easy way to check the problem.
- Unplug the MAF harness
- Drive around
Yep, that simple. If you unplug your MAF and your car all of a sudden perks up then it is more than likely the problem, and cleaning the sensor is a great place to start.
*Warning* If your check engine light is not lit when you try this test, unplugging the MAF Sensor will cause it to illuminate. You can easily reset the light by unplugging the negative terminal on the battery or driving for sixty miles so the car can cycle. I suggest unplugging the battery terminal for ten seconds.
If your check engine light is already on, then this is a great test to try, but before you try it head to your local auto store and get a free scan (Free Diagnostics Car Scan). If they tell you that it is an oxygen (02) sensor than do this test because an OBDII scanner can give false codes on VW/Audi and this is a simple way to eliminate other causes for your CEL.
How to remove MAF Sensor and Housing
- Unclip the harness connected to the middle of the MAF: The clip can be removed using your thumbnail. If it won't pop up, try a small screw driver. Be gentle so you don't break the clip. Once you hear the clip pop, wiggle the harness off of the MAF. (All of the harnesses use the same type of clip so once you learn how to release one, you can use that technique for coils or any other harness that need to be taken off for repair)(DIY if you break a VW/Audi harness clip).
- Here you have a choice you can either remove the sensor from the housing or the housing and sensor as a whole. If you still need to remove the 5 point tamperproof screws I recommend removing the whole unit. Next you will need to remove the two philip head screws connecting the MAF to the air box (right side of MAF). Once those screws are out disconnect the other side of the MAF from the turbo inlet pipe. Most V-dub and audi's use pinch hose clamps. So use your pliers to squeeze it open and slide off the inlet pipe, when putting the MAF back use a screw type hose clamp to save yourself some hassle.
- If you are choosing just to remove the sensor (which I recommend if you have regular 6 point torx screws). Unscrew the two bolts in front and behind the harness plug is. Gently wiggle the sensor out of the housing. Skip down to step 6.
- Once the housing unit is free take your visegrips or pliers and pinch the sides of the screw connecting the sensor to the housing. (It can be a pain in the a** but once your done and replace those bolts you will never have to do it again). Grip it, turn counter-clockwise, re-grip it and repeat till both screws are out.
- The sensor is in nice and tight so wiggle it out of the housing. Once you wiggle it out put it in your ziplock bag and grab a beer. Victory is yours. The hard part is over (if you even want to call that hard!).
- Fill that bag with rubbing alcohol and shake, shake, shake! If you take out the sensor alone you can use a smaller bag, less alcohol and q-tips to clean off any left on residue. Thats why I recommend taking the sensor out of the housing.
- Once your satisfied its clean allow the parts to completely dry before re-installing and starting your car.
- If you do decided to take the sensor out you can put it back in using the same method of using pliers on the side of the screws or you can use the trim screws I mentioned above.
K&N Filters, Short Rams, CAI and MAF'S
This is always a huge debate.
Do K&N filters ruin mass air flow sensors?
In my opinion yes and no. An over oiled K&N filter will definitely coat, and in the long run ruin your MAF sensor causing you a $100-$200 part. A lightly oiled K&N filter lets more air travel through your engine while still trapping dust and dirt particles with no harm at all to your MAF.
I have used K&N in stock air boxes, shorts rams and regular cai's (cold air intakes) and I have never had a problem with them ruining a MAF sensor. It takes one simple step. Clean your MAF every 5-10 thousand miles. That is preventative maintenance that should be done no matter what type of filter you are using, oil or paper.
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Volkswagon & Audi MAF Part Numbers
- 06A 906 461 L Engine Codes: AWP, AMB, AWM, AWW Audi A4, A4 Quattro 01-05, Audi TT, Audi quattro TT, All GTI, Jetta, 1.8T AWP, AWW engines.
- 06C 133 471 A Audi S4 00-02 2.7T, Audi A6 Quattro 01-04 2.7T & 3.0, Audi FWD 02-05 3.0, A4 Quattro 02-05 3.0
- 06A 609 461 M Engine Code: BEA, TT225
- 07D 906 461 X R32, W8 Passat, Toureg 3.2 V6, Audi 3.2TT
- 06A 906 461 A 2.0L Golf, Beetle
More Vw Audi Diy's
-
List of Audi Vw DIY's
- How to Clean or Replace your MAF
- Fuel Filter DIY VW Audi
- Changing Spark Plugs and Coils DIY
- How to tell if a coil is burnt out
- Cleaning your throttle body DIY
- Doing your own VW/Audi Car Repairs
- Changing the A/C Heater Light Bulb DIY
- How to Fix Broken Back Seat Release Latch
- Inner Tie Rod DIY WV/Audi MKIV A4
- Replacing the Temp Sensor DIY
- Replacing the Intake Manifold Gasket 1.8t VW
- Cheap Mods, Cutting Down Shift Rod
- Cheap Mods, Removing Sun Visor Decals
- Broken Wire Harness Clips DIY VW/Audi
-
After having to update every page after every diy I write I have decided to make one main page that contains all my VW Audi diy's. If you are a follower please just bookmark the above link, as it will now contain all past and future diy's in one place.
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Alex,
I know some people use methylated spirits with no problems, others say that the small quantity of acetone in it can slowly eat away at the plastic and rubber parts.
I always use isopropyl alcohol just cause it's easy to find, cheap and does the job.
I've never had a problem with it.
You can also use electrical contact cleaner or a MAF cleaner from an auto parts store for around five bucks a can.
Just spent two and a half hours stripping down, cleaning the MAF with electrical contact cleaner, drying and building back up. You know what? It only worked! I had to make my own tool out of an old screw driver to get the star drives out on the sensor itself and had to make do with a sandwich bag which leaked like a wet tissue but apart from that, all good! Definitely worth trying it, only cost me 4 quid for the contact cleaner and my time.
Dan,
I'm glad it helped out. Next time you're stuck with leaky bags try just using a tupperware container, just hold the sensor and swish it around for a few. I've also had my fair share of leaks when using those generic ziplock bags.
Thanks for the comment.
I have a question on the houseing, can the filter then be replaced? Also the housing unit is connected to the inlet pipe, I noticed this pipe inside has an oil film and further down the pip there is a black part that sticks up from the top that has another part attached to it, than another hose hooked with a clip. This "part" has oil leaking from the connection. Is this oil supose to be in the inlet pipe? And the very next part hooked to it do you knwo what this part is called? Mine is on a 2000 beetle 1.8t
Drea10,
If you are talking about the wire mesh on the housing I would just give it a good clean with rubbing alcohol. If it's damaged you should be able to find a housing online or at a junk yard for fairly cheap.
I believe the part your mentioning is the Diverter Valve or N75 valve (do a google search on those two and you should have your answer), oil will always get blown back through your system and even pools up a bit in your intercooler. So if it's just a thin layer I really wouldn't worry about it, but I would tighten the hose clamp and check for holes in the hose if oil is blowing out.
The stock diverter valve is pretty prone to breaking so if it is on the way out I would suggest getting an after market diverter valve and replacing it yourself. The N75 will also fail after awhile but unless your car is chipped I would just stick with the stock part #.
I hoped that helped. If you have more questions feel free to send me an email or leave it in the comments.
Great write up. I was told by my repair shop the MAF was bad because the readings from it were wavering. Cleaning sounds very straightforward. But, is there a point that it makes more sense just to replace it? My Audi 2.7t has 85k 2003. In other words, is it more appropriate just to replace the MAF in high mileage cars?
thanks again
Peter,
If you have the money to replace your MAF every time that it starts to go bad then by all means replace it. And I must say that you are pretty lucky to get up to 85K on the original MAF.
To answer your question, I don't think there is a point (besides for complete failure of your MAf) to replace it. If you can clean the oil off of the sensors and your MAF reads like new again, why spend 100-200 on a new MAF when you can clean your old one?
Thanks for the comment.
It worked!
I must admit I was skeptical that cleaning would work but was also pressed for time heading out of town. So, bought a can of CRC MAF cleaner for $6. The MAF simply snaps onto the air filter housing. I left the MAF in the housing and followed CRC's instructions: 20 short blasts/squirts. Let it dry (30 sec) and put it back in. I figured for $6 bucks and 10 minutes, it was worth a shot. And it if it not work, I would order a new one.
About 60 miles later and two restarts, the CEL went out and I am really surprised by the additional amount of power. Low end pick up is far better. Far better than I had hoped. I am a believer.
In you comment, you said: "if your MAF reads like new again..." Are you suggesting taking the car to shop and
getting a VAG-COM check of the MAF? Or, can I assume that the MAF is fine if the CEL is off and pick up is great?
CRC suggests cleaning each time you change the air filter. I live in dusty Colorado and change my AF every 20K. A couple extra minutes to spray the MAF looks like cheap PM.
At this point, I will keep cleaning until until cleaning no longer works. Let me know if you think otherwise.
Again, thanks for our informative article and saving me $145.
Rereading my post, I should have said, I took the MAF and its housing off the air filter, but left the MAF screwed into its housing when I cleaned it. With the spay can, I could see no benefit from removing the MAF from the housing.
Peter,
I'm glad you went for it and it worked. Yes I was saying you can check your maf readings with vag-com but as long as your car is driving better and no check engine light then your fine.
Instead of waiting 60 miles for the car to cycle and the CEL to go out you can always reset it just by unplugging the negative battery cable for a few seconds.
The only benefit I see from removing the sensor from the housing is to really get in there with some q-tips and give it a good cleaning and I just find it easier to undo the two screws to pop it out when I clean it. Either way I'm glad it helped.
Thanks for your comments.
I wish I had known about this 3 years ago. I would have been cleaning my MAF every 10,000 miles. I recently had my timing belt break and my engine had to be rebuilt. Ouch! just before that happened my check engine light came on. The shop that did my repair replaced the CAM sensor ($295) to see if that was the issue with the check engine light. Of course it did not resolve the problem. i took my car to another mechanic and he couldn't figure it out either. He had me reset the computer a few times but the check engine light kept coming on after about 60 miles.
I found your post a few months back but I didn't proceed right away because I didn't necessarily want to replace any screws or buy a new expensive tool to disassemble the MAF Housing. Luckily i was digging around in my old computer tools and found the exact star bit that I needed to do the job.
Last Friday on my lunch break I bought some Isopropyl and some ziploc bags and started in on cleaning the MAF sensor. Such a simple job and some canned air made for quick drying. I reassembled everything before leaving for the day and drove home. To my surprise, the acceleration was incredible. i don't remember it being so good. After driving about 60 miles, the check engine light has gone off! I am a believer!
Now, every 10,000 to 12,000 miles I will change my air filter and clean the MAF at the same time.
Thanks for this post!
Hi I have a 01 vw beetle and my MAF has gone down the drain and I'm wanting to replace it, but I want to replace it myself. But my car manual says that a MAF needs to be programmed, is this true?
Christen,
No it is not necessary to have the maf programmed. Once you put the new one on unplug the negative battery terminal for about 20 seconds. That will reset the error code on your ECU and then you are good to go.
Even if you don't reset the error code, after your car cycles (about 60 miles) it will reprogram itself and clear the code.
Hi this is Christen again, I can't seem to find any stores with MAF sensors, do you know of any stores that carry them, and also do you have an estimate of how much it will cost? Thanks so much!
Christen,
I don't think you will be able to find the maf at any store. Your best bet would be to buy it from the Audi/VW dealership, they will have them at the parts counter. Besides for that you can always order one online if you trust the source, just make sure it's new or refurbished any part number with an "X" at the end means it's refurbished.
As for the price it fluctuates depending on your engine but a new MAF will be anywhere between 100-200 dollars.
All I can say is Thank you! I followed the above post and no more low RPM limp mode. Performance increased. You not only resolved my issue but I also learned something. Only have 55k miles on a tuned VW GTI. MAF Sensor will become part of my regular maintenance. Thanks again for the great post.
Thanks for the advice! Your the only person who seems to know anything about beetles...
No problem.
If I can help I will, but some of these problems I get asked I have no idea of what could be wrong.
Thanks.
Excellent write up! If only there were more people in this world like you, sharing their knowledge on the internet to help others. How very un-selfish of you.
I thank you sir.
Your friend across the pond in London.
I have a 2001 1.8 audi tt. I cleaned the MAS. should I also clean the screen mesh that is in the housing. It has a lot of black stuff on it. I put everything back together and the engine runs great again. thanks.
Hi john,
Yes you can clean the screen so none of that dirt and grime get back on the sensor. Next time you pull it out just put the whole housing into a bag of alcohol and give it a good clean by shaking it up.
I just replaced my maf sensor and I was wondering if you knew why my ASR light came on and won't go off? is this a bad thing?
Corrie,
I would try unplugging the maf and making sure it is plugged in all the way also reset the code by taking the negative terminal off the battery for a few seconds. If it still is on it could be a few different problems, one of which could be that your maf is to bad for a cleaning. Your best bet at that point would be to get a free scan at an auto parts store so you can narrow down the broken part instead of wasting money on sensors and a new maf.
Sorry I just noticed you "replaced" your maf sensor. Was it new from a reliable source? It's bad but some people like on ebay just pull a maf out of a junk yard car stating it works when really they have no idea.
It's not a bad thing to drive with the light on, it just means your anti slip regulation is turned off.
I bought the part new from a good source. I have been meaning to replace it for a while and just finally did.
The only thing that I can think of is that when I first replaced it I forgot to plug it in. drove up the street and back and popped my hood, out of habit and that's when I realized I never plunged it in... I am a moron I know.
Could that have something to do with it?
thanks for the diy, i did this myself today and i noticed that i do not have a thermistor where the maf has a little pic of one. on a 2003 gti 20ae 1.8t are they supposed to have a thermistor? thanks
I like the format here great site..need a little help..cleaned my maf on 95 jetta after that it runs really rough when trying to put in gear shakes and dies,,any ideas. Thanks
Kevin,
Not all mafs have that little resistor on them, yours is located on the intake manifold next to the trottlebody, it's called the IAT sensor. You can clean it by unplugging it, unsrew the 5mm allenhead bolt and pull it out, wash with alcohol.
Corrie,
More than likely that was the problem if you forgot to plug it in. If the light is still on unplug the battery to reset the code. If it comes back then you now there is something else wrong.
Dale,
You might want to change spark plugs and clean your throttle body. Usually that helps with a rough idol. Also sometimes a Sea Foam treatment helps. Some people are for it and some are against doing it. I've always done it and have never had a problem, but you will probably want to do your own research.
What a great post! I bought a 1999 Audi A6 which was in limp mode. It is a beautiful flawless auto other than it would only run in third gear. I knew absolutely nothing about Audi's and had no idea of the repair cost! I have had the car just sitting for the last 4 months until this evening when I stumbled onto your blog. What the heck, went outside and unplugged the MAF sensor and behold the car was no longer in limp mode. I am currently cleaning the MAF sensor with alcohol and if it works great if not I will pay $100 to buy a new one. I assumed I was going to have to pay between 1 to 2 thousand dollars to find and fix this problem after reading other blogs. Thanks to your blog and detailed instructions even if I buy the MAF sensor I will have a total of $3,000 invested in one of the most beautiful cars I have ever owned! Needless to say I cannot thank you enough! I am now one very happy Audi owner!
J.Nolan,
I'm glad I helped and I hope that fixes the problem. These cars can get extremely expensive taking them to the shop for just little problems. The internet is a wealth of info for fixing your car, so save yourself some cash fixing it yourself and don't forget about free car scans at auto part stores to help diagnose problems.
Thanks.
Wow! I just did what this guy did and what a big difference it makes. I took the MAF sensor out completely and soaked it inside this ziplock bag and shake shake shake.
I put everything back afterwards, drove the car around the block and I noticed a big difference with the acceleration in 1st gear.
Look at all the dirt collected inside the ziplock bag with the rubbing alcohol inside:
[IMG]http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy213/swoosh021[/IMG]
Thanks again for another DYI. Did mine yesterday. Pretty painless in most part. Grabbing a hold of the tampered screw was a bit of a challenge. Once you get it going though..it's smooth sailing. Also, i did the alcohol bath since I couldn't tell which part was the actual sensor. I'm planning to service MAF again every time I clean my K&N. Thank U again.
After disconnecting the negative battery terminal on my 03 Passat, the Traction Control light and the Engine light are on and won't shut off. Also, the idle has been getting rough. Chilton book says it has to be reset by VW shop after battery is disconnected. Is hat true ?
Buck,
Open your hood and make sure your maf is plugged all the way back in (it's silly but a lot of people do forget to plug it back in). If it is plugged back in properly it sounds like your maf may be bad at this point. Disconnecting the battery will reset the fault codes, besides for the airbag light you don't need a computer to reset them. I hope that helps.
i have an 01 audi s4 thats throwing multiple codes that point all towards the MAF and the spark plugs. (my system is running too rich with random missfires in the cylinders) when i took my car to an auto shop to get it scanned the guy told me to unplug the Mass Air Flow sensor and to drive around without it to see how it affected it... my question is can i leave it unplugged without hurting anything? it did make a noticeable difference but it made the "ABS" light come on and not to mention the plug is flopping around under the hood scares me. thanks for taking the time to help other people out.
Morgan,
Unplugging the maf is a good way to check if that is the problem and it seems that it is your problem. You don't want to leave it unplugged and ignore it, that could cause further damage to your engine in time. For a few days it's not going to kill your car but I would recommend cleaning it or buying a new maf as soon as you can.
im not very good at fixing things so im kinda worried about the tamper resistant screws.. when i took my car to o rileys auto shop the guy that helped me unplug the MAF BROKE the clip on the plug.. and broke the clip that holds the MAF housing to the airbox.. he zip tied it shut so its not leaking but now i have to figure out how to go about removing the MAF so that i dont make any mistakes like someone with actual car experience did.
Morgan,
It sounds like he made more mistakes than you would have. I'm not sure what clip your talking about that holds the maf to the airbox, if you mean the hose clip just replace that one with a metal screw type hose clamp. As for the Maf plug clip if it stays secure on the maf I wouldn't worry about it if it's coming off you will need to replace that, it should be part # 4B0-973-724 $30. but check with your local VW parts center. Pretty much the guy broke the only think you needed to worry about breaking so don't worry about taking some screws out. In the future don't let some random person at the auto store tinker with your car, they don't care if they break it because it's not their job and you'll be stuck with the bill. Good luck.
I cleand the maf, and the throttle bo, but then the cel came on, It wasent there before I did this I checked the wires and everything is pluged in, I reset it but it just comes back on. When i start the car the cel fashed once. What could be the problem?
99jetta,
If you had no codes before you did this, the first thing that comes to mind would be a throttle body alignment. Did you do one after you plugged the TB back in before you started the car? If not, try clearing the code again, then put your key in the ignition and turn it on without starting your car, if you have the hood open go listen to the TB it will be making a high pitched sound, once it is done you can start the car after that you may have to unplug the battery one more time. (it's all written somewhere in that TB DIY).
Tell me if that solves it.
thank you. tomorrow i have off work so im going to find a way to get the 5-star or 6 star screws off. it looks like an allen head wrench will fit but it has the indention in the middle so i have no tools that fit it.
Morgan,
Count the little points on the screw, if there is six points you can buy the bit or screwdriver at any auto shop for around $5. Just ask for a six point security bit. If it's only five points the only place I have been able to find it is online which is why I offer the method of removing them with pliers and replacing them with trim screws. I should have a DIY for fixing the broken maf clip up in a couple days it it ever quits snowing out here.
Thanks for the great instructions!
I have a manual 2000 Jetta GL. The car has been "bucking" or "jerking" while accelerating. It occurs in all gears and at all speeds. From what I have read online, it seemed like a dirty MAF might be the cause by cleaning it didn't seem to help. Any other suggestions? The problem has been going on for a few months and I've taken it to a few mechanics (including a VW specialist) but they can't figure it out. There are no lights on the dash to indicate a problem. The only other issue that I have had with the car is with a fuse that has blown twice; I don't know if that is related.
Marnie,
Sorry For the late reply.
Have you tried scanning the car with vag-com and seeing if it is causing any codes that are being stored without causing a check engine light? I don't know what engine you have but if it's the 1.8t maybe it could be your n75 valve is on it's way out, also check for vacuum/boost leaks and change your spark plugs if they are old maybe it's missfiring. Besides for that I don't know what else to recommend. Maybe somebody else will chime in with a helpful hint.
Thank you for great posting. Where is exactly the MAF sensor located in the 2001 Audi A4 Quatro? I have looked all over the internet, but I was not able to find it. I wish I could find the picture pointing to the MAF sensor. I need to clean or replace it because of the P0171 code and my car won't pass emission test because the O2 sensor is not ready. And I have already replaced the O2 sensor myself and mechanic replaced the hose and pipes.
Thanks
Daniel,
If you have the 1.8t A4 your maf should be more to the left side of the engine bay next to your air intake, as opposed to the right side on a VW 1.8t. If I see my neighbor outside I'll take a look at his car for an exact location.
Try removing any of those plastic covers near the air box and it should be in that vicinity..
I was looking on the left side of the engine under the plastic covers at the air intake that goes to the engine, but still I could not identify the MAF sensor. I will keep checking this post for when you can locate the exact location. Thank you for checking it out for me.
Hi I have cleaned my maf in a golf 3gti, now the car adoesnt want to start, everithing was connectd right, could it be a setting?
Daniel,
Google maf sensor location and your vehicle, you will see a picture. It is located in the front left of the car under a plastic cover.
Nemo,
I have no knowledge of the mk3 gti. On a mk4 the car still starts and runs without the maf even plugged in. If you disconnected your battery to reset the fault code, maybe you forgot to reconnect it properly.
Hello,
I just discovered these great instructions and am looking to try this on my 2006 VW Touareg in the next couple of days. Question about the cleaning in alcohol and drying. How long should you leave the sensor in the bag of alcohol and how much shaking should be done? How do you recommend allowing the sensor to dry, naturally over night or with a hand towel.
Thank you so much for this great resource
Hey Ken,
If you are taking the sensor out of the housing you will be able to see the dust and oil build up on it. So for time really your just trying to give it a good rinse like you would swishing listerine around in your mouth. If your shaking the whole housing around in alcohol just give it a good shake for a minute or two and most of the residue should come off.
As for drying just shake the sensor of any remaining alcohol and it will be completely dry in a few hours. Alcohol dries very fast, you can also rub the housing and screen down with a towel to get off any stuck on oil.
Thank you, thank you for the quick reply. I'll give it try this evening.
I followed this directions, and I am pleased to report that my MIL warning light has gone out and I can now pass my admission test. The only variation I did was I did not have to remove the housing as I was able to remove the MAF sensor without doing that.
I can not thank you enough for this information as I was going to take my car to the dealer before I discovered this blog. Considering parts and labor, you likely saved me $400. Thank you!!!
Ken,
Glad it helped. With all these dealer fees I'm saving people I need a way for people to send me a dollar! I'd be rich by now!!
We have a 1990 V8 Quattro. It starts and runs fine, when you try to back it out of the garage it wants to die out. It runs nice out on the road, just runs poorly at idle speeds in gear. Took it to a local dealer who changed the air filter and turned up the idle speed for $500 (very bad experience)any ideas on this one????
Terry,
I have an idea, Google.
First off the dealer ripped you off by $480 to change a $20 air filter and up your idle speed.
Second this is an article on cleaning MKIV Maf's not a problem solving forum. If I were you I would post your question (with a lot more detail if you want help) on vwvortex, or audizine, Hope that helps for a place to start.
Thank you
Hi.
I have a vw bora year 2000. I want to clean the MAF sensor. But where I live I cannot have the isopropyl alcohol nor the maf cleaner. Is it possible to clean it with a carburetor spray cleaner or ethyl alcohol or do you have any other suggestions? Thanks
I disconnected the wiring of the MAF of my vw bora 1.9 TDI this morning and now the car is running much faster than before and is feeling much lighter. Before I had to accelerate up to 2500 rev/min in the second gear in order to activate the turbo. Now the turbo is on as soon as I start driving on the first gear.Is it safe to leave the MAF disconnected and for how long?
Shakeel,
Go ahead and use ethyl alcohol, it will clean it the same. Unhooking the maf is more for testing to see if it is the problem, I wouldn't recommend just leaving it unhooked while driving it around. I don't think it would cause any short term problems but long term your car will start running rich/lean and the ECU will not be able to properly calculate how much gas it should be spitting out.
Thanks a lot.
Hi.
I wanted to know if it is safe to use a hair dryer to dry the MAF sensor after cleaning it with alcohol.
My CEL has been on for a couple of weeks, dealership finally found the issue to be MAF sensor shorted out and the connections are corroded. Totally cost for parts & labor $784, ouch. Hopefully I'm in the right place asking these questions. I'm a serious novice at car repair but could I replace the MAF myself for cheaper than the dealership? As for the connectors, I have no idea what that means. Would really appreciate any help you can provide, you've done a great job for others!
Leah,
If the connections to the maf sensor are corroded and broken and that's what they are replacing, then yes you could do that on your own. You would have to buy a wire repair kit from VW and a new connector (the part number for the connector should be in my (replacing wire harness connectors DIY)). As for the wire repair kit you should be able to find it online or at the dealership parts counter. It should be a pretty easy job for a novice
Hi,
i want to clean my MAF, but i cant find MAF cleaner here in Nigeria. The only solvent in Nigerian Markets is Carburretor cleaner. Is it safe to clean with carb cleaner. What about fuel (PMS). Is it also safe to clean with it? My 505 V6 MAF is so dirty and contaminated with oil that i fear if is not completely dead. But i want to clean it first and see if it can still work. The car has been hard starting, stumbling, running rich & emitting black smoke for a very long time now. I have checked & replaced nearlly all the sensors or components that can cause such symptoms, but the problem persisted. I even replaced the injection ecu yesterday, but its still doing the same. But since my MAF is very very dirty with dirts and oil, i believe it might be the culprit. But what to clean it with is now the problem. Only carb cleaner is what is available here. So can PMS (fuel) do the MAF cleaning work safely?
Ikenna.
You can use rubbing alcohol from the grocery store. It is sold everywhere, It is what is used in the diy.
hello,
I have a 2002 VW Jetta, and it won't start. I had a diagnostic run on it a few weeks ago for something else, and the MAF was one of the things that came up. I didn't think anything of it, but now I think it's biting me in the ass. I'm about to clean the MAF now with the rubbing alcohol. Let's hope it works. Great writeup.
Thanks!
Had to give props on this one. A $1 bottle of isopropyl alcohol and about 40 minutes is all it took for me to get back smooth acceleration and power in my Audi TT.
Hello,
Just wanted to say thanks for a great how-to - I'd been having problems with my 2001 Golf for the past few months... and your post was real helpful and it worked a treat. I also followed your how-to for replacing the temperature sensor... that was even easier!
Cheers mate,
Ben (Melbourne, Australia)
Great write up with nice explanation and pictures.
I tried this earlier today and it worked for me.
Just to update on removing the sensor, on my Audi A4 B5, the sensor had 2 6 point security screws. I used a small flat head screw driver to break the little notch inside the star. Breaking it out basically turns this screw to a regular torx. So I need to replace the screws.
Thanks for the tip Ravi. I'll have to try that next time.
Alex 2 years ago
Is it an option to use methylated spirit to clean the mass air meter?