How to Replace a Tie Rod DIY for VW MKIV and A4 Platform Cars Jetta/Golf/GTI/New Beetle

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1J0422804B

Replacing The Passenger Side Tie Rod on MKIV'S

This is actually a very straight and simple job if you have a lot of patience. It will take anywhere from two hours to thirty minutes depending on any troubles you run into. For instance, my outer tie-rod end was so seized onto the shaft that I had to take a hack saw to cut it in half. Now if I would of had a dremel or angle grinder then that procedure would of only taken a couple minutes, but doing it by hand took me over thirty. Then again that is a rare situation.

I was quoted a hair short of $300 for parts and labor to replace just the outer end of the tie-rod. This DIY ended at a final cost of $80 for two full tie-rods at $60 (I still have the left side tie rod to sell) and 2 ton car jack stands at $20. You don't really need stands but if you're going to be working under your car then I recommend buying them. twenty dollars for security is a lot better than having a car crush your head.

And at that note lets get started!

This DIY was done on a 1.8T volkswagon Golf/GTI and will be the same for the jetta, new beetle and other A4 platform cars. The part number is 1J0422804B for the right side tie-rod. Please check the part number first for compatibility with your car before you buy it.

Tools & Parts Needed For a Tie-Rod Swap

All the tools are pretty basic tools, and if you have read or used any of my other DIY's you know what my thoughts are on tools. Just buy it, if it is a common tool you will use it again. And it's still cheaper than labor cost!

On this DIY there is one tool that I greatly recommend, It is a specialty tool called an "Inner Tie Rod Removal Tool". Do Not Buy This Tool. But DO, I repeat DO rent it from your local automotive store and it will make the job of removing the tierod very simple. I rented the tool from checker auto parts ("Orielly" in some states), I believe Pep Boy's has it for rental to, but the 2 in 1 tool at AutoZone will NOT work for our cars. The tool can also be bought at harbor freight for $40.

Flathead Screwdriver or needle Nose Pliers for releasing the pinch clips on the boot
Hammer to hit out the outer tie rod if it's feeling stubborn
Adjustable wrench
Inner Tie-Rod Removal Tool (Kit #26, Part #67046 From Checkers)
1/2" Socket Wrench for the removal tool
Metal screw on hose clamps or Zip ties to retighten the boot
Tie Rod part # 1J0422804B
Patience

In This DIY I used hose clamps to tighten the boot back on. I would strongly recommend using Zip ties, they are cheap, a lot easier to use and you can get them just as tight as the original clamps that were on the boot.

The tool I used from Checker Auto parts was Kit #26 also listed under part #67046 made by PowerBuilt. If you don't rent the kit you're going to be in a world of hell. Best of all the tools can be rented for free. You do have to pay for the kit up front but when you return it you get a full refund. So call your local auto shop for more details on renting.

Lets Get This DIY Started!

First of all this is really simple, so just take your time and do it right.

First thing first is to turn your steering wheel all the way to the left. This will give you a lot more room and clearance to the places you want to be. Now loosen your lug nuts.
Jack up your car (Make sure your parking break is on tight) and remove your wheel.
On the first photo you can see me working the squeeze clamp loose with a flathead screwdriver, once it is a little bent, shoving needle nose pliers in there helps as well. Use the same technic on the clamp at the other end of the boot.
Release the tie rod end by using an adjustable wrench. (if the bolt just spins you can hold it still with an allen wrench, all tierod ends have a allen wrench hole in the bottom to keep the bolt from spinning with the nut. Down below I have posted a picture.)
Either the outer end will come out nice and easy or it will need a good whack. Don't be scarred let some aggression out and hit that mofo hard. (Picture 3)
I don't have a picture for this step because my outer was completely seized onto the inner rod. If you have that problem, grab a hack saw, dremel, angle grinder and just cut the rod in half. If not, unscrew the outer end, pull off the boot and your ready for the tool you were smart enough to rent.
Fit the proper size attachment to the inner tie rod bolt and slide on the pipe (picture 4). With your 1/2" socket wrench you can easily unscrew the inner tierod. Once you break it loose, it can easily be unscrewed by hand.
Take your new inner tierod and reverse the steps. If you have a torque wrench you will want to tighten it to around 35 pounds per square inch.
This is the pain in the A part. You can see in the picture (picture 6) I'm using a screw on hose clamp to tighten the boot back on. Save yourself the trouble and use a ziptie for the inner and outer boot clamps. They will be just as tight and will save you a good thirty minutes of working the clamp closed in such a tiny space.

That is it. You will want to keep the length of your new outer tie-rod screwed on as closely as the old. It is always recommended to have an alignment after you change tierods.

A great tip is anytime I buy a new car I go to Firestone (a local garage) and buy a lifetime alignment package. It cost about $150 but you can have alignments done for however long you have the car.